Tea in Paris

Tea is considered a British thing! But tea is the second most widely consumed beverage in the world, 1000 billion (is that a trillion?) cups a year!

And tea time is best example of British “art de vivre”. Since the French thrive on “art de vivre” they too have found a love for tea and tea time. Things have changed since the 1980s when my landlady Mme Cahierre made one pot of tea per week, left the single tea bag in it all week and simply diluted and warmed a tiny bit of her brew with hot water each day. Tea consumption has tripled in France in the last 20 years, but it is still small 230g per person per year compared to the British 2.3kg per person. Just look at these lovely spots for tea in Paris. The very “seizième” British Shop even has a glossary of all things tea.

Thé-ritoires in St Germain des Prés, Paris

Imagined as a family home where you just drop in, like a house where you set down your bags and stay as long as you want. A place to spend time reading, writing and telling our lives. A place to find ephemeral teas, craft accessories from the other side of the world. A place to cocoon, enjoy tea, lunch or nibble homemade pastries or savory dishes and have brunch.  Arnaud Bachelin, plant archaeologist by training turned tea specialist has recently opened Thé-ritoires which by the name alone seem to encompass the man and this two focuses of plants  and earth (territory) and ritual of tea. His mother is British, and he has spent some time in London thus the dark green walls and tartan plaid furniture of the tea house. His botanist grandfather raised him in the Morvan region with his fingers in the earth. Both influences had him sipping tea. Arnaud also believes, rightly that tea is not just British, but in fact from all over the world and comes in nearly every color. His shop demonstrates that with teas and antiques from 4 continents. He travels to select teas directly from gardens with sustainable agricultural methods. The tea he sells, both loose and prepared in earthen ware then served in a dainty cup, changes with the seasons. He’s even written a book called L’heure de véri-thé. Arnaud and his helper Cody (from the land of iced tea) and also have FUSAC’s publication LOOFE on hand for you.

5 Rue de Condé, 75006 Paris https://www.luckymiam.com/the-ritoires/

The British Shop

More than 40 years ago Chantal DAVIES LASSERRE, a Franco-Brit from the Ile of Wight, opened the British Shop, an English boutique in Paris, offering all of the largest English porcelain manufacturers. I had always wondered how a shop could exist with such a narrow focus. How often do people need tea cups? and particularly British dishes?  Well, when I walked in I was mesmerized by the variety of pieces and patterns and I wanted to take them all home. The dishes are charming and bring you back to another era and yet they never go out of style. And they are passionate (Chantal’s car parked outside has the Union Jack painted on it) and very knowledgeable. So that’s how they do it, a passion for beautiful fine china! With The British Shop, you will see the Art of the English table from another angle. Their stock is English faience of very good quality: Wedgwood, Royal Albert, Pimpernel, Peter Rabbit (remember Peter from your childhood!), Roy Kirkham, London Pottery and Johnson Brothers. There are more modern patterns with the Union Jack or 50s and 60s styles too. Really there is something for every one, not just your grandmother. You will find many products for all uses: mugs, coffee cups, flat and hollow plates, dinner plates. For proper five o’clock tea in Paris there are tea cups, teapots, tea cosies, cake plates, the wonderful “serviteur muet” and my favorite the “egoiste” a combination tea cup, saucer and individual pot. British Shop also carries everyday teapots from London pottery that are made near Wimbledon. They English are lost without them and you’ll find them just everywhere from construction sites to offices, hospitals and cafeterias. English holiday specialties are also available: Christmas table settings, Christmas pudding, English teas, Christmas crackers (Christmas crackers). Chantal and her staff are lovely and also have FUSAC’s publication LOOFE on hand for you.

2, rue François Ponsard – 75016, online sales and shipping to the countryside too https://www.britishshop.fr

Tea ceremonies

THE GUIMET MUSEUM – The Asian Arts Museum devotes a space to the delicate art of making tea in the purest Japanese tradition.  The museum’s tea ceremonies are held in the heart of the Japanese garden, in a pavilion made by the best Japanese artists and carpenters. They offer a delicate moment to taste one of the most refined aspects of the art of living of Japan; they also help to understand the importance that the Japanese attachment to communion with nature and the quality of person-to-person relationships. The garden is however closed until spring 2018 for renovation and replanting.  6 Place d’Iéna, 75116 Paris

THE JAPANESE CULTURAL CENTER – This building, which pays tribute to the Land of the Rising Sun, presents a different version of the tea ceremony: unlike the most traditional schools, tea is prepared and savored sitting on a chair, facing a table. However, despite these Western-style rooms and its very modern structure, the space perfectly restores the calm and exotic atmosphere of Japan. The tea ceremonies are held periodically and you must reserve in advance.  101 Bis Quai Branly, 75015 Paris.

THE ALBERT KAHN MUSEUM – This museum, which should be reopening after extensive renovation this spring, houses the Planetary Archive of photographs taken during the missions funded by Albert Kahn in more than 60 countries. This exceptional collection of black and white films and the world’s first collection of autochromes (true color photographs on glass plates) include portraits, scenes of life, architecture …. The Archives of the planet represent a unique photographic and cinematographic testimony of the everyday life of the inhabitants of the world at the beginning of the 20th century and is well worth a visit. In addition the museum has four hectares of lovely gardens with seven different themes and often hosts tea ceremonies in the Japanese pavillon. 10-14, rue du Port, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, M° Pont de Saint-Cloud

Cosy Tea rooms

L’OisiveThé and La Bien Aimée are owned by Aimée (no surprise there!). One is a tea house and yarn shop and the other is a yarn boutique and dye studio. L’OisiveThé, named by an ironic play on words with the French word oisiveté which means idleness – there are no idle hands here, opened 10 years ago, is the City of Light’s first café tricot.  This cozy Parisian tea house and yarn shop is located in the Butte aux Cailles located in the 13th arrondissement of Paris. Read about their weekly knit night: Wednesday’s knit night: How does it work?  70 types of teas: green red, black, lunch and brunch with homemade cakes. Looking for special French yarns that you can’t get anywhere else, come and see what La Bien Aimée has to offer you. Their yarns are hand dyed on site in all kinds of patterns and solids.

L’OisiveThé,  8 bis, rue de la Butte aux Cailles 75013 Paris La Bien Aimée, 89, avenue d’Italie 75013 Paris

Chez Alice in St Germain en Laye is tucked into a cosy side street not far from the castle where Henri II, Charles IX and  Louis XIV were born you’ll find Chez Alice. Everything here is white and gold including Alice herself. Alice is a gem, sweet and kind, and appreciates meeting new people. She knows everyone has an inner “pépite d’or” and hopes to bring it out. Her tea room is convivial and serene with classical and jazz music, old stone, beams and toile de Jouy wallpaper. She even has gold silverware. Alice also loves to cook, especially to bake and try new recipes. She and her mom make everything right there in their tiny kitchen and can serve you lunch, brunch or tea (30 choices from the Compagnie Colonial). Plus Alice’s father is a wine aficionado and thus Alice has some choice wines to serve by the glass. Chez Alice has been charming Sangermainois and visitors for over 8 years. Chez Alice is also a place to pick up FUSAC’s publication LOOFE.